Shifting Gear: Rajasthan - Part 4 - Kumbhalgarh and Udaipur

It was time to get out into the Rajasthan countryside so we set off for Kumbhalgarh. Mr Bharat, our driver, collected us from our haveli and we settled into the back seat of the small air conditioned Toyota, heading south 180 km to Kumbhalgarh. Mr Bharat's English was poor (his boss's had been better) so there wasn't any chit chat along the way, but we preferred driver competency to chatter. Competency on roads is much needed in India where undisciplined drivers dominate. There's a constant sound of beeping horns which isn’t just to alert other drivers to a potential hazard (as in Europe) but simply to say “get out of my way NOW”.

There was nothing of beauty to be seen as we drove out of Jodphur. Traffic filled dusty roads, no pavements, buildings in varying states of disrepair, construction here and there, and the odd cow wandering about. On the outskirts of the city we passed clusters of commercial buildings and educational colleges. The road was good as it stretched ahead and the flat landscape became more rural, although not very interesting. Turning off the main road after an hour or so we drove through small towns and poor villages and the road deteriorated, slowing us down as Mr Bharat negotiated potholes, narrow tracks and oncoming traffic. Reaching the Aravalli Hills, the road wound up and down in forests of trees, and troops of monkeys looking interestedly at passing cars.

Kumbhulgarh fort, built in the 15th century

Couryard at the top of the fort

At the top of the fort this amazing building

By 9.30am the next day we were walking up the steep path of the 15th century fortress (it took 15 years to build) and almost had the place to ourselves. Stopping to admire views along the way, we could see the 36km wall that snakes along the hilltops and encircles the fort. It’s the second longest wall after the Great Wall of China and a trek along the whole wall can be done in 2 days. Mewar rulers retreated to Kumbhalgarh as it was so impenetrable. The view over the surrounding mountains and valleys is stupendous. It was a hazy the morning we visited but, using just a little imagination, if advancing enemies were visible, Kumbhalgarh Fort would be a place of safety. Sadly the poor roads and underwhelming accommodation near the fort make us wonder if it was worth the journey and overnight stay.

Temple in the grounds of Kumbhalgarh

We’d intended to drive on to Chittorgarh, another four hour car journey, but decided instead to head directly to Udaipur and have an extra day there. This was a good decision. Udaipur was our final stop in Rajasthan and it wasn't long before we agreed it was our favourite of the four cities we've visited. Our simple but comfortable haveli is one many in a tourist patch close to the gorgeous city palace, on the banks of Lake Pichola. The havelis are all squashed up together, many of them four stories high, all boasting amazing lake views from their rooftops restaurants. The streets in this area are narrow and winding and yet still the tuk tuks and motorbikes roar up and down without colliding. Surprisingly, Udaipur is the coolest of the cities we’ve visited, with a light jacket needed for the cool evenings.

Beautiful Lake Pichola from the top of our haveli in Udaipur

Udaipur

I’m sure I’m repeating adjectives when it comes to describing the buildings of Rajasthan. In Udaipur there’s yet another spectacular palace and we spent hours meandering around the courtyards and corridors, impressed by the size, architecture and decoration of the palace. The current palace was developed over centuries by successive leaders in the Mewar region (south central Rajasthan). As usual, we took advantage of the high quality audio guide and moved around slowly with our headphones, hearing much about Rajasthani rulers over the last 500 years. You can’t help admiring how tough they must have been to build such vast and beautiful forts and palaces and defend them against invaders.

Udaipur's magnificent palace

We love audio guides as we tour Indian forts and palaces

View of Udaipur palace gate, and city beyond, from the top of the palace

It’s hard to be a tourist in Udaipur and not buy anything. The shops and stalls surrounding the tourist trails in Udaipur are stuffed full of colourful and enticing Indian handicrafts of varying qualities. Fabrics, scarfs, clothes, shoes, jewellery, ornaments….the list is endless and the sellers are ferocious in their attempts to get you into their shops. We were resolute in our desire not to purchase. But of course we failed, so parcel number two, sewn up in muslin, is on its way to Horsham. I defy anyone to leave Udaipur without succumbing. The posting experience in Udaipur replicated Jaisalamer’s but took longer - two trips to the Post Office. I’ve been tracking the parcels progress (both of them) online and am somewhat dismayed to read “parcel opened” in the tracking description. It remains to be seen what arrives in Horsham.

These shops might look innocent enough
but their owners are masters of persuasion

Whilst we liked all the cities we visited in Rajasthan, Udaipur is by far the prettiest probably because of its lakeside location. At night, with buildings lit up, the reflections over the water are reminiscent of Venice and Udaipur is popularly known as “The City of Lakes”. We felt like royalty on our last night, dining on the top terrace of the Lake Pichola Hotel, having been offered a corner table with uninterrupted views over the lake and the illuminated royal palace on the opposite bank. I’m not big on seeking out romantic venues, but this dining spot will be hard to beat. The food was delicious and my companion charming. A lovely evening.

Udaipur at night, the palace lit up in the distance
(not our dining view - my phone camera failed to caputre that stunning setting!)

After two weeks in Rajasthan we arrived in Mumbai, eager to meet up with long standing friends Katleen and Urban who've recently moved there. We had a splendid reunion, drank a lot of their wine and enjoyed a meal at the famed five star Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. The four of us took a Saturday morning stroll in the fort district of Mumbai keen to see some of Mumbai’s iconic buildings built by the British. We did admire some but the metro construction that dominates much of the area made it difficult to appreciate the magnificent Victorian architecture. We’ve promised Katleen and Urban we’ll be back. Our exploration time in Mumbai was short, due some digestive disturbances (me). Happily a day in bed cured me and I’m back to full health and eating curry again. Next stop Goa.