Rajasthan - Part 3 - Jodphur

We travelled from Jaisalmer to Jodphur by train, our first experience of the huge Indian Railways network. The online booking system is complex and although I’d reserved Class 1AC we weren’t sure exactly what this was. This turned out to be a 2 person coupe, with a lower and upper bunk.  Since we weren’t going to be sleeping on the train (which goes all the way to Delhi in 19 hours) we closed up the top bunk and sprawled over the lower seat, Gordon somewhat uncomfortable.  The compartment was clean but extremely old and tatty, and just before leaving Jaisalmer a train attendant abruptly entered the compartment and thrust two brown paper bags at us. They each contained a clean ironed sheet and hand towel!  We left Jaisalmer bang on time at 16.45 and the train rumbled along for 6 hours, occasionally stopping, and we pulled into Jodphur Junction around 11pm. Gordon was glad to get off saying he'd have preferred a proper seat, but I was comfortable enough. We weren't brave enough to buy food that was on sale throughout the journey, the sellers popping into our compartment at regular intervals. Jodphur railway station was surprisingly clean, free of litter and well lit.  The wide platform was busy as we made our way out of the station to find our pre-arranged taxi.  We couldn't help noticing many people sleeping on the roadside, wrapped in blankets.

Haveli Inn Pal where we stayed in Jodphur

Our hotel in Jodphur was a delightful heritage building in the centre of the old city. A large portrait of H.H. Maharajah Jaswant Singh Sahieb stared sternly down at us from the wall opposite the bed and all over this lovely haveli are pictures of Jodphur rulers and traditional elegant decor of a bygone era. With a couple of forts already under our belts we are nonetheless impressed by the imposing Mehrangarh Fort visible from our bedroom window the morning after our evening arrival.

Mehrangarh Fort from the rooftop terrace of our haveli, our breakfast view

Haveli Inn Pal in Jodphur

Digressing slightly to numbers: learning that India's population is 1.3 billion I’m fixated on country population sizes now. Websites tell me the whole of the EU has only just over 500 million people and the entire USA 328 million. Comparing the population sizes helps (I think) to understand India. The vastness of India and the numbers of people make it so diverse and complex. Throw in a caste system and uneven wealth distribution and I begin to appreciate why India is like it is.

Entrance gate to Sadar Market in the old city of Jodphur

Ganta Ghar, the clock tower in the old city in Jodphur

We’ve survived our first week in India and learnt a lot. It’s early days but as tourists we’ve been warmly welcoming wherever we’ve been. Hotel and restaurant staff fall over themselves to assist (sometimes literally, as they outnumber customers!) and in shops or on the street there’s an abundance of enthusiasm and persistence from sellers to encourage a purchase. We're fond of spicy food anyway, but the variety of flavours we've tasted in the curries here has been marvellous. I look longingly at street food but haven't succumbed yet as it's too much of a health risk this early on in our trip!

Busy street in the old Jodphur near the market and clock tower

We enjoyed time in Jodphur, the highlight here being the impressive Mehrangarh Fort, situated on a hill above the city. It's one of the largest and best preserved forts in India, built around 1459, and we spent a morning exploring this massive structure. The fort is maintained and operated by a trust established by the last Maharajah of Jodphur, Gaj Singh. In 1971 the government of India abolished all titles, privileges and remuneration to former royalty and in order to maintain the fort Gaj Singh opened it to visitors which finances restoration and conservation. It's a magnificent place. After our visit we walked down a steep path back to our haveli. Just as the hustle and bustle of the market area started to overwhelm us we picked up our pace and scuttled in to the quiet sanctuary of our haveli, relieved to have somewhere serene to escape to before venturing out later for another gourmet curry.

One of the seven gates to reach the top of Mehrangarh Fort

A courtyard in Mehrangarh Fort

Courtyard in Mehrangarh Fort

Room attendant in one of the palaces inside the fort

The entrance to Haveli Inn Pal where we stayed in Jodphur

We nearly missed a very interesting site in Jodphur, just a few minutes walk from our haveli...a stepwell.  We'd never heard of stepwells before coming to India but they are wells or ponds in which water is reached by descending a set of steps.  Toorji Ka Jhalra (Toorji's stepwell) was built in the 1740s and is quite a sight. It was submerged and full of debris for decades and has recently been drained and restored.  The well's original system consisted of a Persian wheel driven by a pair of bullocks circling a platform on top, which drew water up to two different levels.  The stepwell's now surrounded by restaurants and cafes and we had sunset drinks overlooking this extraordinary well.

Stepwell in Jodphur

Should we give this a go, we wondered?