Rajasthan - Part 4 - Kumbhalgarh and Udaipur

It was time to get out into the Rajasthan countryside so we set off for Kumbhalgarh. Mr Bharat, our driver, collected us from our haveli and we settled into the back seat of the small air conditioned Toyota, heading south 180 km to Kumbhalgarh. Mr Bharat's English was poor (his boss's had been better) so there wasn't any chit chat along the way, but we preferred driver competency to chatter. Competency on roads is much needed in India where undisciplined drivers dominate.  There's a constant sound of beeping horns which isn’t just to alert other drivers to a potential hazard (as in Europe) but simply to say “get out of my way NOW”.

There was nothing of beauty to be seen as we drove out of Jodphur. Traffic filled dusty roads, no pavements, buildings in varying states of disrepair, construction here and there, and the odd cow wandering about. On the outskirts of the city we passed clusters of commercial buildings and educational colleges. The road was good as it stretched ahead and the flat landscape became more rural, although not very interesting. Turning off the main road after an hour or so we drove through small towns and poor villages and the road deteriorated, slowing us down as Mr Bharat negotiated potholes, narrow tracks and oncoming traffic.  Reaching the Aravalli Hills, the road wound up and down in forests of trees, and troops of monkeys looking interestedly at passing cars.

Kumbhulgarh fort, built in the 15th century

Couryard at the top of the fort

At the top of the fort this amazing building

By 9.30am the next day we were walking up the steep path of the 15th century fortress (it took 15 years to build) and almost had the place to ourselves. Stopping to admire views along the way, we could see the 36km wall that snakes along the hilltops and encircles the fort. It’s the second longest wall after the Great Wall of China and a trek along the whole wall can be done in 2 days. Mewar rulers retreated to Kumbhalgarh as it was so impenetrable. The view over the surrounding mountains and valleys is stupendous.  It was a hazy the morning we visited but, using just a little imagination, if advancing enemies were visible, Kumbhalgarh Fort would be a place of safety. Sadly the poor roads and underwhelming accommodation near the fort make us wonder if it was worth the journey and overnight stay.

Temple in the grounds of Kumbhalgarh

 We’d intended to drive on to Chittorgarh, another four hour car journey, but decided instead to head directly to Udaipur and have an extra day there.  This was a good decision. Udaipur was our final stop in Rajasthan and it wasn't long before we agreed it was our favourite of the four cities we've visited.  Our simple but comfortable haveli is one many in a tourist patch close to the gorgeous city palace, on the banks of Lake Pichola. The havelis are all squashed up together, many of them four stories high, all boasting amazing lake views from their rooftops restaurants. The streets in this area are narrow and winding and yet still the tuk tuks and motorbikes roar up and down without colliding. Surprisingly, Udaipur is the coolest of the cities we’ve visited, with a light jacket needed for the cool evenings.

Beautiful Lake Pichola from the top of our haveli in Udaipur

Udaipur

I’m sure I’m repeating adjectives when it comes to describing the buildings of Rajasthan. In Udaipur there’s yet another spectacular palace and we spent hours meandering around the courtyards and corridors, impressed by the size, architecture and decoration of the palace.  The current palace was developed over centuries by successive leaders in the Mewar region (south central Rajasthan).  As usual, we took advantage of the high quality audio guide and moved around slowly with our headphones, hearing much about Rajasthani rulers over the last 500 years. You can’t help admiring how tough they must have been to build such vast and beautiful forts and palaces and defend them against invaders.

Udaipur's magnificent palace

We love audio guides as we tour Indian forts and palaces

View of Udaipur palace gate, and city beyond,  from the top of the palace

It’s hard to be a tourist in Udaipur and not buy anything. The shops and stalls surrounding the tourist trails in Udaipur are stuffed full of colourful and enticing Indian handicrafts of varying qualities.  Fabrics, scarfs, clothes, shoes, jewellery, ornaments….the list is endless and the sellers are ferocious in their attempts to get you into their shops. We were resolute in our desire not to purchase. But of course we failed, so parcel number two, sewn up in muslin, is on its way to Horsham. I defy anyone to leave Udaipur without succumbing. The posting experience in Udaipur replicated Jaisalamer’s but took longer - two trips to the Post Office. I’ve been tracking the parcels progress (both of them) online and am somewhat dismayed to read “parcel opened” in the tracking description.  It remains to be seen what arrives in Horsham.

These shops might look innocent enough
 but their owners are masters of persuasion

Whilst we liked all the cities we visited in Rajasthan, Udaipur is by far the prettiest probably because of its lakeside location. At night, with buildings lit up, the reflections over the water are reminiscent of Venice and Udaipur is popularly known as “The City of Lakes”. We felt like royalty on our last night, dining on the top terrace of the Lake Pichola Hotel, having been offered a corner table with uninterrupted views over the lake and the illuminated royal palace on the opposite bank.  I’m not big on seeking out romantic venues, but this dining spot will be hard to beat. The food was delicious and my companion charming. A lovely evening.

Udaipur at night, the palace lit up in the distance
(not our dining view - my phone camera failed to caputre that stunning setting!)

After two weeks in Rajasthan we arrived in Mumbai, eager to meet up with long standing friends Katleen and Urban who've recently moved there. We had a splendid reunion, drank a lot of their wine and enjoyed a meal at the famed five star Taj Mahal Palace Hotel.  The four of us took a Saturday morning stroll in the fort district of Mumbai keen to see some of Mumbai’s iconic buildings built by the British.  We did admire some but the metro construction that dominates much of the area made it difficult to appreciate the magnificent Victorian architecture. We’ve promised Katleen and Urban we’ll be back.  Our exploration time in Mumbai was short, due some digestive disturbances (me). Happily a day in bed cured me and I’m back to full health and eating curry again. Next stop Goa.

Dinner with Katleen and Urban in Mumbai

Gateway of India in Fort district of Mumbai

Iconic Victorian buildings in Mumbai's fort district

Rajasthan - Part 3 - Jodphur

We travelled from Jaisalmer to Jodphur by train, our first experience of the huge Indian Railways network. The online booking system is complex and although I’d reserved Class 1AC we weren’t sure exactly what this was. This turned out to be a 2 person coupe, with a lower and upper bunk.  Since we weren’t going to be sleeping on the train (which goes all the way to Delhi in 19 hours) we closed up the top bunk and sprawled over the lower seat, Gordon somewhat uncomfortable.  The compartment was clean but extremely old and tatty, and just before leaving Jaisalmer a train attendant abruptly entered the compartment and thrust two brown paper bags at us. They each contained a clean ironed sheet and hand towel!  We left Jaisalmer bang on time at 16.45 and the train rumbled along for 6 hours, occasionally stopping, and we pulled into Jodphur Junction around 11pm. Gordon was glad to get off saying he'd have preferred a proper seat, but I was comfortable enough. We weren't brave enough to buy food that was on sale throughout the journey, the sellers popping into our compartment at regular intervals. Jodphur railway station was surprisingly clean, free of litter and well lit.  The wide platform was busy as we made our way out of the station to find our pre-arranged taxi.  We couldn't help noticing many people sleeping on the roadside, wrapped in blankets.

Haveli Inn Pal where we stayed in Jodphur

Our hotel in Jodphur was a delightful heritage building in the centre of the old city. A large portrait of H.H. Maharajah Jaswant Singh Sahieb stared sternly down at us from the wall opposite the bed and all over this lovely haveli are pictures of Jodphur rulers and traditional elegant decor of a bygone era. With a couple of forts already under our belts we are nonetheless impressed by the imposing Mehrangarh Fort visible from our bedroom window the morning after our evening arrival.

Mehrangarh Fort from the rooftop terrace of our haveli, our breakfast view

Haveli Inn Pal in Jodphur

Digressing slightly to numbers: learning that India's population is 1.3 billion I’m fixated on country population sizes now. Websites tell me the whole of the EU has only just over 500 million people and the entire USA 328 million. Comparing the population sizes helps (I think) to understand India. The vastness of India and the numbers of people make it so diverse and complex. Throw in a caste system and uneven wealth distribution and I begin to appreciate why India is like it is.

Entrance gate to Sadar Market in the old city of Jodphur

Ganta Ghar, the clock tower in the old city in Jodphur

We’ve survived our first week in India and learnt a lot. It’s early days but as tourists we’ve been warmly welcoming wherever we’ve been. Hotel and restaurant staff fall over themselves to assist (sometimes literally, as they outnumber customers!) and in shops or on the street there’s an abundance of enthusiasm and persistence from sellers to encourage a purchase. We're fond of spicy food anyway, but the variety of flavours we've tasted in the curries here has been marvellous. I look longingly at street food but haven't succumbed yet as it's too much of a health risk this early on in our trip!

Busy street in the old Jodphur near the market and clock tower

We enjoyed time in Jodphur, the highlight here being the impressive Mehrangarh Fort, situated on a hill above the city. It's one of the largest and best preserved forts in India, built around 1459, and we spent a morning exploring this massive structure. The fort is maintained and operated by a trust established by the last Maharajah of Jodphur, Gaj Singh. In 1971 the government of India abolished all titles, privileges and remuneration to former royalty and in order to maintain the fort Gaj Singh opened it to visitors which finances restoration and conservation. It's a magnificent place. After our visit we walked down a steep path back to our haveli. Just as the hustle and bustle of the market area started to overwhelm us we picked up our pace and scuttled in to the quiet sanctuary of our haveli, relieved to have somewhere serene to escape to before venturing out later for another gourmet curry.

One of the seven gates to reach the top of Mehrangarh Fort

A courtyard in Mehrangarh Fort

Courtyard in Mehrangarh Fort

Room attendant in one of the palaces inside the fort

The entrance to Haveli Inn Pal where we stayed in Jodphur

We nearly missed a very interesting site in Jodphur, just a few minutes walk from our haveli...a stepwell.  We'd never heard of stepwells before coming to India but they are wells or ponds in which water is reached by descending a set of steps.  Toorji Ka Jhalra (Toorji's stepwell) was built in the 1740s and is quite a sight. It was submerged and full of debris for decades and has recently been drained and restored.  The well's original system consisted of a Persian wheel driven by a pair of bullocks circling a platform on top, which drew water up to two different levels.  The stepwell's now surrounded by restaurants and cafes and we had sunset drinks overlooking this extraordinary well.

Stepwell in Jodphur

Should we give this a go, we wondered?

Rajasthan - Part 2 - Jaisalmer in the Thar Desert

After 3 days in Jaipur we flew to the town of Jaisalmer in western Rajasthan. The hour’s flight on Spicejet was efficient, on time and cheap. Commercial flights to Jaisalmer land at the airforce base runway, mostly bringing tourists. The tightly controlled Pakistan border is only 49 km away, hence the large air force base. Coming into land at Jaisalmer Airport you know you’re in the Thar desert as the landscape is flat and dry with small trees and shrubs in the sand.

Jaisalmer Fort, Rajasthan

Hotel Lal Garh in Jaisalmer

It's only a fifteen minute drive into town and we were pleasantly surprised at my choice of accommodation in Jaisalmer.  Hotel Lal Garh has a handsome ornate sandstone facade and we were soon sitting on the rooftop terrace of the hotel, admiring Jaisalmer fort as the sun went down, sipping Indian wine (Sula Sauvignon Blanc, very drinkable) and crunching on crisp warm poppadoms.

A good beginning in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer's a lot smaller than Jaipur (population around 68000) and its fort still houses around 3000 people. Historically Jaisalmer was on the camel train routes between India and Central Asia but with the advent of sea trade and railways its importance declined. Partition in 1947 ended trade routes to Pakistan and now Jaisalmer's economy relies on tourism, wind power generation (we could see the wind turbines from the air as we flew in) and military bases.  Walking to and from the fort from our hotel we saw small groups of Western tourists but mass tourism has yet to reach Jaisalmer.  In and around the fort are a staggering number of sellers offering a huge variety of handicrafts and “tat”.  It's hard to see how a living is made relying on tourism and Gordon wondered how many women in Rajasthan must be beavering away at embroidery to produce such vast quantities of handmade embroidered cloths.

Walking through Jaisalmer to the fort

Jaisalmer Fort

The desert air was crisp and fresh and during our stay we walked to and from the fort. It’s India so you have to be ready to sidestep animals, litter, rubble and motorbikes.  Inside the fort are the most astounding sandstone Jain temples dating from 15th and 16th centuries. The temple structures and interiors are bursting with magnificent ornate carvings. I'm unable to describe how wonderful they are and my photos don’t capture their beauty and detail.

Jain temples in Jaisalmer Fort

Carved pillars inside a Jain temple in Jaisalmer Fort

Intricate carving inside a Jain temple in Jaisalmer Fort

Since Jaisalmer is famous for embroidery so we inevitably found ourselves bargaining for a hand embroidered cloth we'll use as a wall hanging. The lady seller (unusual...they are mostly men) assured us that our purchase helped disadvantaged women in the community. We bargained good naturedly and once 60% had been knocked off the starting price and we felt we’d gone far enough. After handing over cash it was slightly disconcerting to be offered, free of charge, a similar embroidered cloth of lower quality. Mmmm….had we stopped too soon? We’ll never know.

Back at the hotel our spoils looked large and bulky. Next morning, armed with brown paper, sellotape and nails scissors we set off to Jaisalmer Post Office. The post office was not busy and seemed a sleepy place. While waiting to be served at the one open counter a man sidled up and insisted we follow him into the area behind the counter. Workers at their desks there took no notice. Here we were advised that registered parcels must to be encased in cloth and have edges sealed with wax.  We wondered how on earth we were going to do this. Our saviour was of course our man, and we realised he was a post office worker. Brown paper wrapping done, our man opened a drawer, grabbed a plastic bag and indicated we should follow him out of the Post Office. Around the side of the PO building he sat down suddenly on the dusty concrete path, gesturing for us to do the same. Chatting cheerfully he produced muslin cloth, needle and thread, and swiftly set about sewing a bag for our parcel. Fifteen minutes later our parcel was encased in a handsome cloth covering. Next the sealing of the edges, expertly done with a lit candle and a stick of red sealing wax. I'd like to say he used a fancy seal but it was the end of large bolt.  We realised this service was supplemental to our man’s post office pay and he asked for 200 INR (£2) which we happily handed over. Hopefully our parcel is now winging its way to Horsham. We have good faith in the Indian postal service.

Stitching the parcel 

Sealing the parcel

The parcel ready for posting!

Rajasthan - Part 1 - Jaipur

Arriving late in the evening in Jaipur, after a five and half hour flight from Malaysia, it was midnight by the time a taxi delivered us to the haveli (traditional townhouse) I’d booked. Every now and then thrift gets the better of me and this seemed to have happened when I booked 3 nights accommodation in Jaipur a few months ago. 1500 INR (£16) does get you a basic, clean room in Jaipur, but as we wearily fell into bed (it was 2.30am KL time) I was already plotting a morning move to something with more charm.

Colourful tea seller in the old city of Jaipur

Poppadoms galore!

By 9 am the next morning we were tucking into breakfast at Khatu Haveli, a haven of tranquility with oodles of old Indian charm, inside the walls of the Pink City. Rough around the edges, but still charming. The old city is teeming with people, cars, tuk tuks, motorbikes and animals against a backdrop of constant noise and extreme poverty. Right outside the yellow walls of our large guesthouse cows and pigs, foraged for scraps of food in a large pile of litter.  The roads are dusty, potholed and strewn with litter and walking through the old city on our first morning it’s sobering to realise and comprehend the level of hardship that exists here and is unlikely to change any time soon. I feel very fortunate.

The morning’s walk through the old city to the city palace set me thinking about India so I looked up how many people make up India’s population.  It’s a staggering 1.3 billion and India’s the second most populous country in the world.  Along with many tourists we meandered around courtyards and buildings that make up the city palace complex, built in the 1700s.  We liked the Mubarak Mahal (“Auspicious Palace”) which is an ornate fusion of Islamic, Rajput and European architectural styles. But the highlight of Jaipur old city (for us) is the gorgeous five storey Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) built in 1799 of pink sandstone and the city's most iconic structure. It wasn't easy to find the ticket office as the facade of the building faces a roaring busy main road and the entry point is at the back. This monument  (and Amber Fort, read on) makes Jaipur worth the journey.

Mubarak Mahal in the City Palace complex in Jaipur

Ornate doorway, City Palace, Jaipur

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

Facade of Jaipur's most famous palace, Hawa Mahal

The following day a cheerful tuk tuk driver, Max, drove us to Amber Fort and waited while we explored this enormous palace. It's situated on a hilltop about 11km from Jaipur.  Trudging uphill to the first gate we met elephants plodding down the wide stone path towards us! It's popular here to take an elephant ride to the entrance, but they didn't look happy elephants to me. Hopefully pressure from animal activists will put a stop to this in the not too distant future. Between 1037 and 1727 successive rulers improved and added structures and what is now a UNESCO World Heritage sight is an amazing fort. I won't try to describe the fort but the architecture and size of the temples, courtyards and gates are overwhelming, given the time period in which these structures were designed and built. A truly impressive and surprising sight.

View of Amber Fort near Jaipur

Elephants in Amber Fort

A courtyard in Amber Fort

Inside Amber Fort

Tuk tuk driver Max deserves special mention because his skillful manoeuvres have allowed us to live. At least that’s what it felt like. We're seasoned South East Asia tuk tuk passengers, but nothing can prepare you for the white knuckle rides that take place around Jaipur.  Indian drivers here are impatient and aggressive  and the poor roads are overcrowded with users (cars, motor bikes, tuk tuks, tractors, dogs, pigs, cows and pedestrians). A taxi driver told us only commercial drivers (like taxi drivers) take a test and very few people have insurance. Just about anyone can drive a vehicle and go unchecked so standards of safety and driving skills are low. However, we did feel surprisingly safe sitting in Max's old tuk tuk, even if I did shut my eyes now and then.

Gordon and Max

Jaipur’s the first stop on our travels around Rajasthan and from here we fly to Jaisalmer. Since it’s winter in Rajasthan the weather is cool in the evening but the day time temperatures are perfect for sightseeing, around 20 to 23 C.  The only thing that’s made Gordon sweat is the curry!

Gordon and Bruno the beagle, at Khatu Haveli