Hazardous Moments in Hampi

Hampi boulders

After a glorious beach break in south Goa we travelled on the VSG Howrah Express from Margao to Hospet Junction in the neighbouring state of Karnataka. It was anything but express. When the long train pulled in at Margao Station at 0750 we sensed it wasn't going to hang around long as the crowd around us dispersed rapidly, many at a run. Anxious, and unable to locate our carriage, we hurriedly heaved ourselves up steep steps and got on. A few moments later the train set off.  Leaving Gordon with bags I went in search of a conductor.  A polite enquiry about the location of carriage A1 was ignored at first (he was laboriously writing out a ticket) but after a bit told me it was two carriages up and we'd have to get down at the next station to make the move up the train. It was a relief to find our assigned berths and we setttled down for the 7 hour train journey.  Apart from being cheap, there's not a lot we recommend about train travel in India.  We've only done two train trips but it's far more comfortable to fly on low cost airlines that crisscross India for not much more than a first class train ticket.  There are train journeys we'd love to take in India (Shimla) but for the remainder of this Indian adventure our train journeys are over.

Waiting at Margao Station for the train to Hospet

At Hospet Junction Mr Paul, an exuberant tuk tuk driver,  greeted us. Almost immediately he started calling us "mama" and "papa" which, although most likely a sign of respect, I find rather irritating. About 20 minutes later we pulled up to a gate on a quiet country road some way from Hampi - our accommodation for the next 3 nights, Lotus Riya Guest House.  I broke a couple of my own top rules booking this guest house but the risk did not pay off.  Rule number one: location, location, location.  We're out in the sticks, 3km from Hampi and Lotus Riya Guest House isn't quite as appealing and tranquil as Booking.com depicted. Rule number 2, read current reviews thoroughly on all booking sites.

Hampi is an extraordinary place on the banks of the Tungabhadra River.  Scattered over a hilly area of 16 square miles are clusters of mostly Hindu ruins in varying degrees of restoration or decay.  Many temples are spectacular and date from the 1500s.  There's a lot to see and would be guides intercept regularly, but we prefer to wander guideless and explore monuments without the constant chatter.

Gateway to the Vittala Temple, Hampi

A shrine in the shape of a stone  chariot in the courtyard of Vittala Temple, 16th century

Beautifully preserved Lotus Mahal

All around are hills dotted with granite boulders of different sizes, and on flatter patches of land picturesque fields of vivid green rice paddies and banana plantations.  In the centre of Hampi town, charmingly called Hampi Bazaar,  palm trees stand tall along the river bank and we climbed up a small hill beside the town for a fabulous view of temples and ruins.  Hampi Bazaar is a hodge podge of narrow dirt steets crammed with rough and ready guest houses, shops and restaurants catering for Hampi tourists.  Every few moments waiting tuk tuk drivers whip maps from their pockets and insist they show us the ruins.

View of Hampi Bazzar and Virupaksha Temple

Paddy fields and palm trees in Hampi

Street in Hampi Bazaar

Seenu, friend of Mr Paul, picked us up this morning for the drive to Hampi.  We like tuk tuk travel -  journeys are cheap and there are always plenty of tuk tuks available wherever we've been.  Drivers are skillful at negotiating potential hazards (potholes, cows, goats, children, motorised vehicles) so we weren't prepared for the moment at which a motorbike slammed into our tuk tuk.  The crash occurred on my side and although I had, at the very last moment, been aware of an approaching motorbike from a side road, I assumed Seenu would magically avoid collision. Thankfully there wasn't any damage to the tuk tuk or me or the motorbike driver and after loud group discussion between witnesses and Seenu,  we continued on our way. Hazard number one.

Towering above Hampi Bazaar is the spectacular nine tiered Virupaksha Temple, still a place of worship today.  The temple's long history dates back to the 7th century but Vijayanagara rulers in the 16th century turned a small shrine into a large temple complex and  there's a lot to explore. Walking barefoot around the complex (no shoes allowed in a place of worship) we were regarded by lots of small monkeys scampering mischievously around the temple. Not sure if this is their permanent home or they too were visiting.  Rounding a corridor we suddenly encountered Lakshmi, the temple elephant. She (and her carer) were only about 10m from us. I took a quick photo. A second later Lakshmi was steered in my direction (trust me, elephants take big steps) to begin her circuit through the temple. I retreated into the corridor we'd come from, but over my shoulder Lakshmi was gaining on me...clearly this was her route.   I don't really think she'd have hurt me, but it was alarming to see an elephant coming straight for me. Gordon said he'd never seen me move so quickly as I stepped out of her way.  I like elephants but not quite so close. As for Lakshmi....I suspect it's not such a great existence living in a temple, even if she is a sacred elephant.

Hazard no. 2 - Lakshmi, the sacred elephant at Virupaksha Temple, Hampi

Entrance to Virupaksha Temple near Hampi Bazaar

15th century elephant stables 

We're just in from a final ride in Seenu's tuk tuk, through the dark unlit back lanes from Hampi to our guest house. Dinner tonight was a plate of Tibetan steamed momos (a kind of stuffed dumpling) followed by a delicious pizza.  After four weeks of predominantly Indian fare, pizza is heavenly! There's barely any moonlight as we drive out of Hampi but just enough to see outlines of temples and boulders as our tuk tuk splutters along, its revving engine making quite a din.  This doesn't sound like much of a ride, but it's oddly atmospheric and exhilarating.  Hampi has grown on us. We weren't sure if Hampi was worth the journey, but I think it is.